Red Dog Blog

What the...??? My Custom Model is Sticky!

2006-10-12T11:42:00.000-07:00

If you're the owner of a sticky custom model, it can be really frustrating to deal with. If you wrap it to take to shows, you risk leaving parts of the wrapping materials in your model's finish. A collector-friend of mine was cursed with a sticky custom model that she wrapped in bubble wrap with the bubbles facing the model... she ended up with a model that looked like it had been attacked by an octopus. With a slightly sticky model I owned, I had to pick toilet paper fuzz out of the model's finish at shows.

For artists, the question is, "How do I avoid creating a sticky model?" For the model collector, the question is, "What do I do with a sticky model?" The first question is a little easier to answer. First, if you're painting a plastic model, let the model "cure" for a few weeks to a month on a shelf before you paint it. If you'd like to speed up the process a bit, you can still prep it and let it sit on a shelf, then prime and paint it as soon as those weeks have gone by.

Why bother to cure the model first? Because Breyers and Stones are made of plastic, they're painted with paints that are made from the same plastic as the body, and then they're shoved in a plastic box or wrapped in bubble wrap that allows very little ventilation. Plastic has to cure to become stable, and the best way to do that is to let the model sit on a shelf. How do you know when a model is cured? It will have little or no "new Breyer smell."

We all know that new Breyer smell. I remember relishing it when I was a kid. That's actually the smell of brand new plastic that hasn't fully cured, and to be honest, it's not the safest thing to inhale. No, it won't kill you, but it's not exactly good for you either. But like a good cigar, it's hard not to take a whiff of a good Breyer. ;-)

Another key to avoiding stickiness is to give the model time to cure between each step of its finishing. After priming the model, let it sit at least 24 hours before you paint it. Then, after you've painted the model, let it sit another 24 hours before you seal the paint. And last but definitely not least, don't prime or seal the model on high humidity days.

Some artists believe you can avoid stickiness if you strip a plastic model's OF paint job before you prime and paint it. If that works for you, go for it. But my personal opinion is that stripping the original paint is an unnecessary step. Like I mentioned above, the paint on Breyers and Stones is made of the exact same plastic as the model's body, except it has color to it. So if you simply strip the OF paint, you're only removing a very thin layer of plastic from the top of the model -- you're not curing the model's plastic or changing the model in a way that would prevent stickiness.

Now you might argue that a Breyer body could sit at the factory for a while, mostly curing before it's painted, then it's painted and shoved in a box right away. The body may be cured but the OF paint isn't. If you feel the model would be cured as long as the OF paint were removed, and you'd rather not let the model sit on a shelf curing for a few weeks, then you can certainly strip the OF paint to speed up the process.

As for collectors who want to know what to do with a sticky model, that's a more complicated issue. One technique I've used with success (and others have told me the same) is spraying the model with Testors Dull Cote. You'll need to mask any shiny areas like eyes because Dull Cote will give the model a matte finish. A coat or two of Dull Cote can stop or reduce stickiness with some models. But if a model is REALLY sticky, there may not be much you can do about it. :-( Just avoid wrapping sticky models in fabrics or toilet paper that will leave lint on the model. A friend of mine wraps all her customs in spandex fabric because it doesn't release any lint on models.

If you become the unlucky owner of a sticky model, you can try the tips I recommended above or, worst case scenario, strip the model and have it painted again. The good news is that if the artist follows my suggestions of letting the model, primer, and paint cure before moving on to the next step, the model probably won't be sticky next time.

Would you like to see an article on something specific? Email Kristin!

(c) Copyright 2006 Kristin Berkery, www.ilovehorses.net

If you could design your Holy Grail...

2006-09-22T10:55:00.000-07:00

If you could have any favorite model, whether plastic, resin, OF, or custom, what would it be? For example, would it be a Deputed Duke resin in bay blanket Appaloosa? Or would it be an OF Breyer Goffert (Friesian) in palomino? Maybe it already exists, like an old OF Breyer Wedgewood in great condition or the new Ruffian resin sculpted by Kitty Cantrell and painted by Caroline Boydston.

This is always a tough question for me because I love so many colors and it's hard to choose just one or two great sculptures. I spent a large part of my life involved in Arabians so I often dream about having a really nice Arabian sculpture with *Muscat's distinct color and markings. But I think the sculpture would have to have *Muscat's build for it to be really appealing, and there aren't many Arabian resins out there with his body type.

What model(s) do you dream about? If you post your comments as "Anonymous," please consider including your name in your post. ~~Kristin

Here's something to...

2006-09-08T18:45:00.000-07:00

get the conversation started. Those of you who live-show your models, what are some of the funniest (or most clever) names you ever saw in the show ring? In my local area, we have a longears model named "Ass-fault" and a pony model named "Edgar Allen Pony." If I think of others, I'll post them here. ~~Kristin

Unveiling the Blog!

2006-09-07T13:31:00.000-07:00

I'm way behind on getting this blog going, but better late than never, I guess! My goal with this blog is to provide a window into Red Dog Studio so you can see what I'm keeping busy with. Along the way, you'll read about some of the techniques I use in painting and sculpting and you'll have the chance to give me feedback. I'd also like to hear what you want to read about, so don't be afraid to share your suggestions.

I've been pretty busy this entire year because I was preparing for a new baby, and now that she's here, she keeps me on my toes! It makes it more difficult for me to produce pieces, but I'm still slowly creating new stuff for the hobby. I'm also trying to find the "sweet spot" of what my customers want me to create for them. I've produced just about everything -- custom models, painted resins, original sculpture resins, original finish models, original finish china, custom china, resin bas reliefs... I think that's everything, but I may have left something out. Anyway, it's hard to get a feel for what collectors really want from me, so I'm hoping this blog will give my customers a chance to point me in the right direction.

I would also like to share the work of other artists in the hobby that I think deserve mention, but in many cases these artists might be new names to you. I think it's easy for hobbyists to get hung up on collecting pieces by "famous" model horse sculptors and painters, and in the meantime they overlook artists that aren't "famous" but are just as talented. I'm a notorious bargain-hunter, so I find that reasonably-priced work by lesser-known artists is far more appealing to me. As a model horse live show judge, I'm always excited to see amazing pieces created by people I've never heard of. To me, that's like discovering a nugget of gold while panning in a river. And when those amazing pieces by lesser-known artists do well in the show ring, telling those artists about the wins is so much fun!! They are always thrilled to hear about their creations' accomplishments.

So if you have comments about what you'd like to read in the 'Blog, please share them. I hope this becomes a place where you can laugh, learn, and think about model horses in a slightly different way. ~~Kristin

Pictured above, mini Nahar in black chestnut tobiano. Completed June 2006 for a friend.